Reese's Network Pieces

Real wired internet,
without the contractor markup.

I run ethernet inside your walls the correct, to-code way, then charge you for parts at cost plus my time. No trip fee, no 2–3× materials markup, no upsell.

This isn't a business. It's a favor rate for people I'm connected to, one job at a time.

Try the estimator See what's included

The work

What I actually do

Straightforward structured cabling. The same job a low-voltage contractor does, minus the invoice.

01

Run ethernet inside your walls to the rooms you want wired.

02

Put a finished jack and faceplate at each outlet, flush to the wall.

03

Terminate every run back at your router, or a tidy central spot.

04

Test each cable end to end before I close the wall up.

05

Add a small switch if your router is out of ports.

06

Clean up after myself and label what I ran.

CABLE

I only use solid‑copper, UL‑listed, in‑wall‑rated cable. The cheap “copper‑clad aluminum” sold online isn't to code and is a genuine fire risk. You get the real thing, at what it actually costs.

The math

Why mine costs a fraction

Nothing clever. A contractor's price is mostly labor, a minimum/trip fee/estimate fee, and markup. I skip all three.

A contractor

Typical installer

Labor$60–120/hr
Show-up minimum$100–200
Materials markup2–3×
Per wired outlet$125–300
This

My way

Materialsat cost
Show-up minimumnone
Markup0×
My time~$50/hr*

Same cable, same jacks, same end-to-end test. The only difference is I'm not running a business off it.

*Lets start here, talk person to person and look at the job. If this is super easy we can go down.

Example estimator

Get a ballpark in ten seconds

This is an example calculator, not an official quote. It uses typical retail prices and average run lengths to show a realistic range. Your real number comes after I see the place and you fill out a few questions.

Your outlets

One row per wired outlet. Set how hard the run looks; leave the length if you're not sure.

Room (optional)Run difficultyLength ft
easy  = attic/basement right there, straight drop
typical = some fishing, one floor, drywall
hard  = two-story fish, no access, or plaster/masonry
Your estimate
—
add an outlet to begin
Add at least one outlet and you'll see an estimate and how it compares to a pro.

Estimate only. Actual price depends on your walls, access, and run paths, confirmed on site.

Transparency

Let's keep it real

An estimate isn't a promise. I give you a firm number once I've seen the place. The calculator above is a ballpark, nothing more.
Some runs are just hard. Plaster, brick or concrete walls, or a two-story drop with no attic or basement access take real time, and they cost more. I'll tell you before I start, not after.
If a run's going to be ugly, I'll say so. Sometimes the right answer isn't fishing a wall. I'll suggest MoCA (ethernet over your existing coax) or a wired access point instead of forcing something I can't deliver cleanly.
I'd rather over quote and deliver under. So I scope honestly and only take on what I'm confident I can do right. Since i'm just a real person with a regular separate day job, we can work together on costs.

Next step

Want a number for your place?

Send me the rooms you'd like wired and a few photos: where your router is, each room, and any attic, basement, or crawlspace access. I'll turn it into a real quote.

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